Wednesday, February 17, 2010
restaurant ember
Walking into Restaurant Ember is like visiting the house of a close aunt who dishes out really nice food everytime you go. Situated at the ground floor of Hotel 1929, it serves what I can only describe as modern european cuisine with an asian twist. Introduced by a friend several years ago and it has become one of those places that I've been so many times that I almost can decide what I want to order even before I sit down. The menu hardly changes though not never. New menus are often minors tweaks than major revamp, why change sucessful dishes, right? On my last visit for dinner, my dinner party (all of whom are fans of the restaurant), got a little surprise with the addition of many new items on the menu. The perennial favorite, the pan fried Chilean seabass with yuzu butter sauce and mushroom ragout, along with other signature items were still there, but my favorite crab cake was no longer available, it has been on the menu for as long as I had known the place. channelling a sense of adventure and the slight disappointing, I decided to try items that I have never ordered before.
I started with foie gras with mango sauce, passionfruit and shrimp crisps, which was fairly good. Hard to mess up foie gras paired with a sweet/fruity sauce but I found the sauce to be a tad too sweet and the crisps, while adding a nice contrast to the buttery soft foie gras, somewhat distracting. It was quite good on the whole, just that frivolous parts can be trimmed off, foie gras is usually good enough to stand on its own and do not require boosts of flavour or great contrasts from the other components on the plate. Another version of foie gras at Ember paired with shoyu and mirin, which I have had on previous occasions, I find to be excellent, with the relatively subtle sweetness of the mirin and the aroma of the shoyu going very well with the foie gras.
For my main, I ordered a brand new item on the menu, the Chilean seabass encrusted with mentaiko with bottarga hollandiase sauce. The mentaiko crust added a nice dimension to the dish, contrasting with the silky texture of the fish. The bottarga hollandaise, presented (somewhat hilariously) like a muddy shoeprint, added yet another dimension to the dish, adding a luscious creaminess to the ensemble. The use of bottarga ties in very well with the rest of the components, creating a light fishy basenote that runs consistently thoughout.
There was less of a shuffle in the dessert menu. I had my usual banana tart with basil oil and a scoop of vanilla ice cream. The tart consists of a flaky and buttery base topped with fanned slices of banana baked into a golden disc. Not mindblowing or paradigm changing (especially when it's the 10th time you are eating) but the flavours are harmonious, familiar and comforting. This perhaps goes for most of the dishes that I like Ember for, easy and familair but always with an extra something to make the meal special. I hope I can find something to replace the crabcake soon.
Restaurant Ember
Hotel 1929
50 Keong Saik Road
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